Is Your Home Ready
for Solar?

Roof is under 15 years old, or has been professionally inspected

Asphalt shingles older than 15 years should usually be replaced before going solar. Metal and tile roofs can last 50+ years and are often fine even when older.

At least 200 sq ft of clear, unobstructed roof space

A typical 6 kW system needs 300–400 sq ft. Dormers, skylights, chimneys, and HVAC units all reduce usable area.

Roof pitch is between 10 and 45 degrees

Most standard pitched roofs fall in this range. Flat roofs can work too; installers use angled mounting racks to tilt panels toward the sun.

No major repairs pending

Soft spots, missing shingles, or visible sagging need to be fixed first. Solar installers walk on your roof, so it must be structurally sound.

Roof faces south, southeast, or southwest

South-facing is ideal. East or west-facing still works, typically producing 15–20% less. North-facing roofs are generally not viable.

At least 4–5 peak sun hours per day in your state

Most of the US qualifies. Even cloudy New England states work well because high electricity rates compensate for less sun.

Minimal shading between 9 AM and 3 PM

Shade from trees, chimneys, or buildings during peak hours reduces output the most. Partial shading isn't always a dealbreaker; microinverter systems can work around it.

Average monthly bill is over $150

Below $75/month, solar rarely pays off. Between $75 and $150, it depends on your state's rate and incentives. Above $150, the case is usually strong.

Your electricity rate has increased over the past few years

The national average rose 5.4% in 2026 alone. Solar locks in your cost for 25+ years — protection against future rate increases.

You have 12 months of electricity bills available

Installers need your annual kWh usage to size your system correctly. Over- or under-sizing is a common problem when only one month's bill is available.

You plan to stay in the home at least 5–7 years

Even if you sell before break-even, solar adds about 6.9% to resale value. But the biggest returns come from staying put and banking the savings.

You own the home

Renters can't install solar. Condo owners face more complexity since the roof may be common property, though many states now require associations to allow solar.

No major renovations planned that would affect the roof

Room additions, roofline changes, or a planned roof replacement? Finish those first, then go solar.

Your state has solar access laws (or you don't have an HOA)

Over 30 states prevent HOAs from outright banning solar. California, Texas, Florida, Arizona, New York, and most of New England are among them.

You've reviewed your HOA's CC&Rs (or don't have an HOA)

Look for rules about exterior modifications and energy systems. Many HOAs have no specific solar policy — submit a written request with panel placement diagrams before signing any contract.

You've looked up your local permitting requirements

Search your city or county name + "solar permit" to find requirements. Check your utility's website for interconnection rules. If you can't find clear info, a quick call to your local building department will get you an answer.

Your electrical panel is 200 amps

Most modern homes have a 200-amp panel, which is sufficient for solar. Older 100-amp panels typically need upgrading first, adding $1,500–$4,000 to the cost. Check the main breaker — the rating is printed on it.

No known panel recalls or defects

Certain older brands — Federal Pacific and Zinsco in particular — have known safety issues. If you're unsure, a licensed electrician can inspect your panel as part of a pre-solar assessment.

You have spare breaker slots in your panel

Solar systems require dedicated breakers. A full panel will need upgrading or a sub-panel added. Ask your installer to assess this before finalizing a quote.